Mary McFadden’s death on Sept. 13 has made many people recall memorable moments with the designer, but Irina Simeonova has been reminded of how McFadden changed her life. Born in Bulgaria, Simeonova worked in design there for several years until the scarcity of a future in that field and limited food supplies that had been brought on by the perestroika prompted her to come to the U.

Her collections, worn by a clientele that included Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, featured pleated gowns that fell to the floor like columns of antiquity.

She took symbols from ancient cultures and translated them into intricate embroideries, beadings and paintings on clothes worn by the likes of Jacqueline Onassis.

Mary McFadden, an award-winning designer, art collector and fashion innovator died Friday at her Southampton home. She was 85. The cause was myeloma dysplasia, her brother, John McFadden, told The Times.

The New York-born talent was the first woman to the lead the Council of Fashion Designers of America and combined her ardor for art, travel and fashion into her collections for decades.

Mary McFadden, a legendary fashion designer known for blending ancient culture with modern fashion, passed away on Friday at her home in Southampton, NY. She wa